Tarpon Springs and the Florida Gulf Coast

How lovely when Neptune smiles!

Floats as Art

It was 145.43nm from Government Cut to the turn into the Anclote River, which 4.5 winding miles later took us to Tarpon Springs City Marina. We had sailed about 60 miles offshore in turquoise waters and never saw a passing ship ❪during the day or night❫.


However we did have two visitors - check the photos to see who.

Florida Wildlife and Fisheries


A bird (warbler?) rode the dingy davits a couple hrs

During most of the day we had a fairly steady 10 kt breeze from the Northwest. That night the winds rose a bit and we were wondering if we should reef the main sail when things steadied and we finished the trip with a comfortable 15 kt Northeast wind. A starry, starry night with a crescent moon made things almost too easy. Roy & I set up our own little "nests" where we could watch the horizon. Once it got past midnight we both were able to take little "cat" naps. One of us on watch and the other "resting".  The new Raymarine E7 chart plotter was wonderful. We could set the course and let the Autopilot and Chart plotter talk to each other and keep us on track. A shrill beep alerted us every time one waypoint was reached and Wahoo was turning toward the next one.

{Waypoint - latitude and longitude points on the chart that mark your route from start to finish. When you chart your course each leg has a starting and ending mark, called a waypoint. As each leg tends to be a straight line the boat needs to change headings to move onto the next leg of your journey}

Dinner at sunset was comfort food of the highest order -
sautéed crabmeat with a béchamel sauce, a little salad on the side.

Sponge Boats tied up in Tarpon Springs

Look closely you'll see the bags of sponges on this sponge boat.

Thursday, mid-day April 26, as most of you were gearing up for Jazz Fest, we were wandering around Tarpon Springs enjoying being on solid ground, eating a little Greek food, buying soap and sponges. But, even with an afternoon nap, we fell into bed early.

That's Wahoo at anchor in front of Moore's

Friday we were on our way to a favorite anchorage on Longboat Key, South of Tampa - St Pete. Favorite because of Moore's Stone Crab Restaurant. 

Still checking for leaks from the keel every few hours - all seems well.

Saturday we were on the move again eager to get to our anchorage at Sanibel Island, 85nm South of Longboat Key. Every trip we've meant to stop and spend a day on Sanibel, this time we were determined to do so. Plus, we couldn't see the generator guy until Monday anyway. Still enjoying 10 - 15 kt wind we opted to sail the Gulf route from Longboat Key. Going out Longboat Pass, that tricky thing, and coming back into the Intracoastal Waterway at Boca Grande Pass. {The Intracoastal Waterway, IWW, runs from Tarpon Springs to Sanibel.} A gale hit us just as we were in the Pass and the winds quickly whipped up to about 30 kts. It was lovely being able to put down the sides on the Dodger and enclose the cockpit as we made our way down the 20 nm to our anchorage at Sanibel.

Sanibel Island Art

Key Lime Pie, Yummy!

We took the dinghy ashore and spent Sunday wandering around Sanibel; picked up some shells (some for you Nancy), had lunch and tried unsuccessfully to find that picture of a Roseate Spoonbill that I should have bought in Rockport, TX when we were there in 2007. 

Shelling on Sanibel Island

Its now Tuesday afternoon and we're tied up at Moss Marina in Ft Meyers Beach waiting, waiting, waiting for the generator guy to be here...

He said first thing Monday morning. Must be on island time.

Sheba,  May 15, 2000 - May 1, 2012

Waypoints and Mileages
Once out of the Anclote River it's about 54nm for a gulf run South to Longboat Pass. You can also stay in the Intracoastal all the way down to San Carlos Pass

Gulf approach to the bridge at Longboat Pass is to the South of the Pass due to shoaling, very shallow to starboard - be careful of swimmers.
Longboat Pass Approach  27 25.93N   82 42.00W
Longboat Pass 27 26.32N  82 41.71W
Continue through the Pass carefully as shoaling occurs on both sides.
Longboat Pass West 27 26.76N  82 41.11W
Turn South to the anchorage in front of Moore's or maybe you can tie up at their dock.
Longboat Key Anchorage  27 26.30N  82.40.79W

Gulf run from Longboat Pass to Boca Grande Pass 51Nm
Boca Grande Pass 26 40.02N  82 20.09W  well charted and marked pass to IWW

Turn south for about 20 NM to our Sanibel Anchorage near daymarker #4
Sanibel Anchorage 26 27.89N  82 02.65W

Escaping from Florida's Big Bend

The Big Bend of Florida starts in Carrabelle where the GIWW East of Harvey Locks ends. Of course for Wahoo with her need for 60ft bridge clearence the GIWW basically ends in Pensacola. We have no choice but to make offshore runs as we travel along the panhandle. However, from Pensacola those runs can all be made in easy daylight sails. Our panhandle stops are Destin, Panama City and Apalachicola - all 50-65 nm sails. The sail from Apalachicola to Carrabelle is shorter, only about 25nm. It is at Carrabelle that a decision must be made. It's 179nm straight across the Gulf then 6 nm up the Anclote River to Tarpon Springs. Wahoo generally cruises 6-7 kts/hr so it's a 24 hr crossing. In the past we've generally opted to go with shorter sails, stopping at least in Cedar Key(129 nm) and once even in Steinhatchee.



This time a nor'easter was coming so we didn't even make Carrabelle but stayed awhile in Apalachicola. While there we ordered a generator part for a new problem. (voltage too high - that's different from the old, still unfixed, problem of safety switches burning up)
Apalachicola is a lovely, charming town it's waterfront obviously experiencing a decline from its heyday of bustling warehouses for cotton and lumber with wharves filled with all kinds of steamships and sailing vessels. Still it has lots to offer with its many coffee houses, restaurants, bars, antique shops and clothing boutiques. Some of it's old historic homes have been turned into Inns or B&Bs, others have been restored and are open to visitors, a few are still being lived in.
















-On our way to do laundry we stopped at the wooden boat show-
The courthouse sign says it all "Apalachicola, the real Florida". It's coastal location is near enough to the white sandy beaches of St George's Island for sun lovers and fishermen will find lots of charter boats to take them out. But today's oyster and fishing industry means that it's much more then just a tourist town.




- Dr Gorrie's patient with the ice bucket above the bed -




-the Mechanical Refrigeration Machine -
There is also an historic figure that called this town home and like the town he's important but not well known. His name is Dr John Gorrie. He invented the first machine for making ice. His 1851 patent for a mechanical refrigeration machine was first of its kind. Dr Gorrie needed a lot of ice because he realized the importance of keeping his yellow fever victims cool. He devised a way to chill the patient's room by suspending a bucket of ice above the patient's bed, then fixing a pipe that took air in at the floor level, and up through the attic and out over the ice bucket. Thus by sealing the room so no other air entered he could use the "hot air rising - cool air sinking" effect of air to lower the temperature of the patient and the room. It worked,but Dr Gorrie died not being able to market his invention or witness the amazing results that air conditioning would bring to the south.
Part of the fun of cruising is meeting fellow cruisers. The other boat in the Marina was Shaman, from Pensacola. Her owners, Don and Lisa, were making there way to the Bahamas this summer. When they aren't cruising they are big time racers in the Pensacola area. Lisa has her own all women crew and seems to win often. Ellie and Marcie do you think we want her around for LPWSA events? There was plenty time during our 4 night stay to drink sundowners, eat lots of Apalachicola oysters and trade sailing tips.




- our 4 slip marina in Apalachicola -
The marine forecast showed Tuesday morning as the day that the wind speed would slow to 15kts and start to switch around to the west. The waves would also go down to 4-5ft by mid-day so it looked like the day to head out. Roy and I had checked the charts and decided that we could cut off 12 nm if, instead of going out Carrabelle pass, we went through tricky Government Cut due south of Apalachicola. To be sure we got local knowledge around the marina " it shoals, favor the starboard side and all the big fishing boats use it". We couldn't leave early with Don and Lisa as we were still waiting on that part but by noon we'd filled the fuel and water tanks, paid our marina bill and were just waiting for the Ups truck. By 2pm we were on our way. Tarpon Springs was 24 hrs away!
You know that thing about sailors. - "if you don't run aground you aren't trying hard enough" Well we obviously were trying real hard. By 3pm we were aground in Government Cut. And shortly after that we were hard ground as the winds hadn't slackened though they were now from the West and each wave was pushing us into shallower waters. Roy tried and tried to get us free but we soon knew we'd need help. So using our Boat US membership we called and asked for a tow. (for the non boaters - SeaTow and TowBoat are the two commercial rescue operators. A BoatUS membership gives you free towing for $150/year). It was 5:30pm when SeaTow arrived. The captain tried diligently for 2 hours but we were now on a falling tide and it was getting dark. After taking our anchor out to deep water to try and halt our being pushed into even shallower water the captain checked we had provisions and slipped off into the night. It was with a sinking heart that we faced what we knew would be a long night listening to Wahoo pound her keel against the sandy bottom. Roy did what he could throughout the night to keep the waves on our beam and reduce the pounding.

dusk and SeaTow's last try to free us

Long before daybreak we were scanning the horizon for our returning savior. Finally dawn arrived and with it a larger, more powerful boat from TowBoat. It still took from 7:30 to about 9am and a rising tide for us to break free. We carefully checked the keel bolts, watched and listened for water seeping in from possible cracks in the keel connections. Things seemed good so the TowBoat Captain led us through the pass and by 9:30am we were once again on our way to Tarpon Springs, having now escaped the Big Bend area of Florida.

Or have they...
How is that keel? Can they take another 24hrs? this blog looks different...

Time to Slowwww Downnnn

Luckily we aren't in a hurry —

We had a lovely sail from New Orleans to Pass Christian, wind was light and out of the SE. The squall before we arrived couldn't possibly dampen our spirits.

Where's my French Fries??

Lindy 'n Babara's seafood spread in the Pass

We checked in at Pass Christian Yacht Club where the slips are only $25 a night including water and electricity thanks to our membership at NOYC. Quiet power and all the water you wanted - pure luxury (especially after 3 1/2 months living on a generator and schlepping water at West End.) Unfortunately, we couldn't meet up with Roy's sister, Dawn, and brother-in-law, Jerry; poor planning on our part. We did, however, spend time with Dale's sister-in-law, Lindy. Not only did we get a "welcome to the Pass" visit but also a great evening with boiled seafood and the fun of seeing another friend, "Fancy Nancy", from those old French Quarter days.

We ended up spending a 2nd day in the Pass as it seemed a good idea to finish with caulking the windows with that Dow product that seems to work so well.

Dauphin Island

On 4/13 we turned East and headed to our favorite Dauphin Island anchorage. Once at anchor it was time for Sheba's first dingy ride and beach visit. Roy & I loved feeling sand between our toes again. Later, watching the sunset towards New Orleans with some Louie Prima on the stereo made us happy to be sailing again.

4/14  We headed across Mobile Bay hoping the Marine Forecast was going to be wrong. A high wind advisory went into effect that afternoon and we saw gusts as high as 38knots as we crossed the Bay. Bye bye to our plans to anchor in Big Lagoon near Pensacola and make Destin by the next afternoon. Sailing is nothing if it isn't about loose plans. The wind was whistling but the sky was blue. We decided to stop near daybeacon #65 on the ICW (Orange Beach area). Two great Marinas face each other across Arnica Bay. Saturday afternoon we tied up to the free dock at Pirate's Cove Marina. No electricity or water but the price was right and there was live music and a bar for a Saturday Night in Alabama.  Pirates Cove bar and restaurant has been at that point for 90 years. The bartender said that due to the shifting sand bars it was a pirate hideout in the old days.

too much fun to take pictures!

4/15  Sunday, the wind was still high so we crossed Arnica Bay to Bear Point Marina for a rollicking Sunday afternoon session with a singing guitar player and a bar full of regulars who knew all the words. Platters of boiled crawfish and shrimp could be had for 5 bucks! Who would even want to cook!

On the 16th the wind was calming down a little so after doing some laundry and a few other chores we motored the 10 miles to our anchorage on Big Lagoon behind Perdido Key, a National Seashore. How many times can you say beautiful, lovely...

Perdido Key Dingy Approach from lagoon side

Gulf Side, WOW!

Wahoo at Rest

White sand beaches and dunes with the Gulf just stretching out to the horizon. That's the view. When we dinghied ashore and took a look at the surf. Wow! Think we'll hang here a couple more days.

On 4/17 (what day of the week is that?) Our wise decision was rewarded by our own private Blue Angel air show. Something to watch!! Our pictures certainly don't do it justice.

FOUR planes in formation!!

So fast you can't even see the planes!

We finally got to sail out of Pensacola Channel on the 18th and in quick succession spent nights in Destin and Panama City. We are now secure in Apalachicola at Miller's Marina (all of 4 slips) as we once again wait for a front to pass. Luckily Boss Oysters is right next door and there's the cutest liquor store a few blocks away.

No land? Really now, NO land??!

Dauphine Island Anchorage 30 15.63N     88 10.43W

New Orleans to Key West Redux

What a winter!! I know, I know it wasn't that cold but we were glad to see a warm March. Roy was ready to throw me over the side, he was that tired of having me complain about the cold.

But we (he) got an awful lot accomplished. In December Wahoo went to Seabrook Marine to have the bottom done and pull the mast for the really big deal of installing the Raymarine E7d Chart plotter with Radar. Moonlight Marine and David Burke were just a great help getting the things we needed. If any of you need help with things nautical he's the one. Plus his kids are so cute! http://moonlightmarine.com/

While the mast was down we also installed our long distance WiFi antennae to the top of the mast and ran the cable down through the mast, then snaked it under the floor to finally have it emerge and be connected to our Time Capsule(router). The Time Capsule is a WiFi router as well as an automatic backup device. Now as long as there is an access point ashore that we can - well access, we have WiFi throughout the boat. The antennae is an 8dpi omni directional unit connected to a Ubiquiti BulletM2HP all using power over internet to allow us to receive Wifi signals. The farthest we have connected so far is about 2 miles. We bought ours last year from Bob at Island Time PC and can't recommend him high enough. His customer service is superb! (http://islandtimepc.com/marine_wifi.html) Roy decided to install a line stabilizer also because power aboard a sailboat isn't stable.

Wahoo on the Travel Lift at Seabrook

Mast being lifted off of Wahoo

We also installed an Epirb for safety sake and replaced 150' of anchor chain. The jib furler had been showing signs of wear for a couple of years, so it came off and got sent in for repairs. Ended up with...

well here's the story -

We sent it in for repairs in early November. First they just forgot about it, then it was Thanksgiving, then they forgot to look at it again, then it was Christmas followed by New Years (I don't know when these folks actually work). When we called again in early January they couldn't get to it because they closed two weeks for inventory! By now it was getting close to Mardi Gras and we were getting worried. The next time we called they were all apologetic and said they couldn't fix it but would send some replacement parts. Once the parts arrived - IT WAS A WHOLE NEW JIB FURLING SYSTEM! Value $3,500. costs to us $550. WOW!

Wahoo from top of Mast

Final installation for the WiFi antennae and radar

    

Wahoo received loving care in the repair and refurbish department. That includes both AC units (thanks Ralph from Comfort Services) and replacing insulation in the engine compartment. A new locker was built, the front engine compartment panel was replaced, our hailing port was updated from Lafitte to New Orleans and the dingy got a name (li'll hoo). The fixed windows in the salon got replaced as they were throughly scratched, cracked and crazed. But, (there's always a "but" it seems) Hunter's recommended caulking was wrong so the leaks got worse until we finally found a solution (hopefully). If you have the same problem use Dow 795 silicon building sealant. The list of repairs went on and on.

However, as we sail out the generator is NOT fixed thanks to the numb nuts at Kohler Headquarters. They swear they will have the CORRECT part at our next port of call that has a Kohler mechanic, I think that's Ft Meyers. Only a year trying to get this right.

See the tab "About Wahoo" at the top of the blog for more on a refurbished Wahoo, including pictures.

Anyway, its Wednesday morning the sky is blue, the wind is fresh and we have a following sea so we're on our way. 

Farewell New Orleans, We're gonna miss ya.

Hello To Our Next Adventure

Now stenciled on a Wahoo Bulkhead - thanks Dave and Angela

 New Orleans Municipal Harbor to Pass Christian Municipal Harbor 53.72NM

Waypoints

NOMH  30 01.96N   90 06.76W

Hwy 11 Bridge  30 11.75N    89 50.00W

I 10 Bridge 30 09.36N  89 37.78W

Rigolets RR Bridge 30 09.36N 89 37.78W

We know what it means to miss New Orleans

Austin in the boson's chair 

Counting the days as we complete the runs across the west coast of Florida.

Oysters in Apalachicola - again!

Today we should enter Alabama waters; and Friday we should be tying up behind NOYC.

Trying to decide on important things. Lets see... will the first New Orleans burger be at Clover Grill or Camilla Grill or maybe Port of Call.  First PoBoy at Parasols (well Tracy's nowdays) or Parkview. Can't wait for Obituary Cocktails, Washboard Chaz
at Three Muses and that palm lit patio on Pauger. We know that Tuesday will see us at Rum House for Taco Tuesday and next Friday's lunch? - Well only the G spot will do.

Thanks to all of you for helping us keep in touch with home. Your emails, texts and comments have meant a lot. We so can't wait to see everyone that we're inviting you all to the Yacht club for a "We're home party" on Friday. We should be in around 5pm but watch for a text message or email when we enter the Rigolets with a more exact time.

I can raise the main sail

 

No surf? No problem!

We've learned a lot about living on the water and on the boat. I've learned that I'll never like night sailing but can do it. Roy's learned that he can only grow his beard so long.

We've both learned that we want to do more.

Miami and Southwest Coast of Florida

No Name Harbor - busy weekend

South Beach Dining

We shipped out the autopilot from Miami on Wednesday, July 6th and knew we had a 10 day wait for its return. Our decision was to have the unit returned to us at Marathon City Marina in Boot Key Harbor. We would stay five days in Miami, two traveling down the keys, then a few days on a mooring ball in Boot Key Harbor. The city of Marathon is on Vaca Key which is considered part of the middle Keys and at the northern end of the 7 mile bridge. This would be our fourth visit here as we'd stayed twice on the 2009 trip and again on our way to the Bahamas back in May. 

South Beach Street Scene

Miami was fun. Its entire purpose for existing is tourism. It was basically not much more than a trading post until Flagler decided to extend the Florida East Coast Line south of Palm Beach and brought it to Miami and Key Biscayne in 1896. The grand hotels he built, or bought, along the railway created the idea of south Florida as the American Mediterranean. To support his idea and provide the infrastructure needed, he encouraged farming and helped to build hospitals, schools and churches.

At the Beach

Obviously the idea worked even better then he expected. People came to visit and decided to move to the warmer climate, at least for part of the year. In 1925 the first fully planned community in the United States was laid out and the selling of Coral Gables began. At one time the city had over 3000 agents  selling property and giving tours. 

Even earlier a town separate from Miami was developed as a small ocean front community. In 1915 it was incorporated as the City of Miami Beach. It was the southern end of this island where the raging Art Deco architectural style came into its own in the 1930s. Trendy South Beach has weathered its rough times and become, once again, a mecca for tourists.

Vizcaya Home and Gardens was

one of the attractions we visited. It was built by James Deering VP of International Harvestors in the early 20th Century. It was designed to look like a 400 year old Italian villa that had been remolded over the centuries. He incorporated doors, gates, walls and ceilings from estates all over Europe. Viacaya overlooks Biscayne Bay.

Terrace looking at Biscayne bay

On Monday morning we started on our way down the keys. Wahoo with its 5 foot draft travels the Hawk channel which is on the Atlantic side of the keys. Due to our draft there aren't many places to stop; but by now we know our way around and enjoy the trip realizing too well that the beautiful waters won't be ours much longer. 

Leaving No Name Harbor, our first stop is near Key Largo. Rather then traverse the narrow canal and "crash corner' that takes you to one of the 3 marinas lining the canal into Key Largo, we opt for a semi-protected area off of Rodriquez Key where we swing at anchor and enjoy the sunset. No Name Harbor to Rodriquez Key is a 45nm trip mostly motoring as the wind is not our friend today. 

Somedays it soooo bright!

The next morning we head for Boot Key Harbor, another 45nm away. Roy is helmsman for most of the trip both days with me spelling him for short periods of relief. On this day we can set the jib and gain a knot making the trip both quicker and more fun.We arrive around 3:30 and easily attach to a mooring ball. Before you know it we're having visitors. ZigZag, a lovely 42' Whitby with owners Cheryl and Jack are there ( had met them in the Bahamas off Norman Key). So are Matt and Julie from the Island Trader, Coup D'Amour (had met them several times on our way to the Bahamas). Amazingly so are a young couple from Houma who had looked at the "for sale" Wahoo in New Orleans, they ended up buying a smaller boat and are happy living their dream. That's the fun of Boot Key Harbor, everyone stops there - some for a night, some for weeks and some never leave.

We spent time some visiting, partying and made a road trip to Key West while waiting for the autopilot to arrive on Friday. Roy spent Saturday morning and then Saturday afternoon installing and reconnecting only to discover it still wasn't working correctly. So very, very disappointing!! It was the weekend, no way he could talk to anyone until Monday so the decision was made to move on. Besides we really thought Austin would be meeting us at last. We wanted to be able to pick him up in Ft Myers.

I swear that's a Roseate Spoonbill

On the way down to Key West we'd made the offshore run in one long passage, 85 nm Marco Island to Key West. But with the autopilot not working we figured we'd better break it up even if it added up to more miles and more days. So this time we went 40 nm from Marathon to Little Shark River, interesting as this anchorage is on the edge of the Everglades and the wildlife is amazing. I think we saw a crocodile, definitely saw a Roseate Spoonbill and some kind of furry creature who kept popping up from the river and looking around, Muskrat?? 

Then 55 nm to Marco Island and finally about 30 nm to Fort Myers. John Edward had sent us the first Harry Potter book as an audio file so we started catching up with the rest of the world. 

And yes, we picked Austin up Tuesday night at midnight. Yeah!!

  

An early birthday present 

         

So now here we are meeting a repairman for the autopilot and another one for the generator, which annoyingly keeps burning up a control module every few months. But that's ok as we're at Fort Myers Beach and can walk with sand in our toes everyday.

Dinner overlooking the Gulf - yes with a surfboard 

Sometime a guy just has to surf!

Tomorrow its on to Captiva island to enjoy a more relaxing beach scene. Hopefully the autopilot sea trial will let us know that that problem is over.
Its past time to be heading for home.

from Belize - she's not only the girl with the surf board but she's a Price from Belmopan.

The shirt was a little "brata", that's lagnaippe for us New Orleanians.