Getting below 12 degrees N Latitude!!

Carriacou

Moving South through the Grenadines we passed the imaginary line that separates the St Vincent Grenadines from the Grenada Grenadines. This line in the ocean falls between two small islands. Belonging to St Vincent is Petite St Vincent which is completely owned by a luxury resort that goes by the nickname for the island, PSV. Not even 1/2 mile to the South is Petite Martinique which belongs to Grenada. A little to the East of both is a reef  separating the Atlantic from the Caribbean. The blue water and white sand bottom make this a stunning anchorage, between the islands and behind the reef, WOW. Roy & I spent a couple of nights there before moving on to Carriacou (carry a coo), another of the Grenadine islands belonging to Grenada. We were basically dawdling around as we waited for Lindy. 

You don’t have to clear in to Grenada in order to visit Petite Martinique which was a nice touch. We cleared in at Hillsborough, the only real town on Carriacou then spent a couple of days snorkelling the reefs around Sandy Island before moving down for a week in Tyrrel Bay with all the other cruisers.

Boat Building

fishing Boats

Carriacou is what I imagine the entire Caribbean was like 20 years ago. There are no big hotels or marinas on the island. The locals understand and even cater to the cruisers but tourism hasn’t replaced local life, allowing island life to stay "real". They still build wooden boats on the beach in the area called Windward, because it is (windy and to windward). They still fish from sailing boats and it’s about as laid back an island as you can find. The big wonderful harbour in the Southern part of the island protects many cruisers as they get ready to complete their cruising season and head to Grenada, Trinidad or for the truly adventurous to the Aves and Roccas, off the coast of Venezuela. We found boats that will circumnavigate the Caribbean, stopping in the ABCs before venturing on, and boats that will head West from Panama through the Canal and on around the world! Everyone stops in Tyrrel Bay in Carriacou. 

Reef fish at Sandy Island

Sunset over Sandy Island

A tiny, tiny island off of Carriacou is one of the loveliest spots we’ve found. Sandy Island is a small spit of land on the Leeward (Caribbean) side of Carriacou. A lovely perfect curving white sand beach is on the Eastern side of the island, across narrow dunes topped with coconut palms and sea grape is the rocky coral edging of its Western shore.  Mounds of coral were pushed ashore as Hurricane Ivan plowed through the area. The North and South points are fringed with coral reefs. The North point is a great snorkelling spot with some of the clearest water we’ve seen. To make it better Carriacou has made this area a Marine Refuge. It has 12 moorings and is a no take zone, therefore protecting this bit of paradise. Included in the Marine protection zone, and located near Tyrrel bay, is one of the only mangrove swamps in the Windward Islands. We ate mangrove oysters! Delicious but it takes 3 or 4 to make up the same amount as a small Louisiana oyster. Still, we weren’t complaining. 

Her favorite spot!

Finally its was June 12 and we were excited to be welcoming Lindy aboard Wahoo. For so long we’ve tried to make this happen. Lindy hasn’t been back in the islands since the days she and my brother, Roger, ran the Island Fever as a charter yacht out of St. Thomas. She had lived on St. Thomas for 5 years. We were happy to have her back swimming in “blue” water! It’s a long long way from New Orleans to Grenada and with a fair number of obstacles she still made it down and brought with her 3 boxes of parts for Wahoo including our jib roller furler. Oh happy days, we’ll be a two sail, sailing boat again!! A huge thank you to her and to Grouper for helping gather and box everything that needed to get here.

Lindy pointing out a spotted Moray eel!

Once settled aboard we did the logical thing and headed back to Sandy Island. This little island was made for Lindy to fall in love with and she did. With a tropical wave moving over the Eastern Caribbean we opted to stay right there for 4 lazy days of sun, snorkelling and beaching. We did get to Carriacou by taking the dinghy to Paradise Beach for a bus trip to Hillsborough, and then around the island to Windward to see the hand built wooden boats and the fishing sailboats. It was a rainy day, so a good time for a bus trip.

Luxury at the PSV Resort

Our next stop was 5 miles NE to the anchorage between the twin islands of Petite St Vincent and Petite Martinique. We spent an evening at the PSV resort enjoying sunset and cocktails "off the boat". The next day we decided to go to the reef to snorkel and in our enthusiasm were soon in deep trouble. Lindy and I, avid snorkelers that we are, were over the side and swimming away as soon as the dinghy was moored. Thankfully Roy had more sense! The current was so strong. Before we were aware of it we were carried far from the dinghy and far apart. Try as we might neither of us could swim back to the dinghy. Roy immediately saw the danger and climbed back aboard. The rescue was swift and effective. I hate to think what could have happened if he hadn’t acted so quickly! 

Rescue!!! 

For the rest of our stay here we only swam near Wahoo. I have to note that on our first day in the anchorage, as well as on Roy & I’s previous visit, we had never encountered a current that was moving so swiftly. I had spent a lot of time in the water in this anchorage with absolutely no problem. Just goes to show that caution is always necessary!

Happy Bar

Happy colours in Union Island

After the fun and games at PSV we decided on Union Island and the Happy Bar as our next island in the sun. A lumpy but quick couple of hours got us safely tucked in behind the reef that protects Union. I certainly wished for better weather for the visit but was grateful that the series of tropical waves were not too bad. Some gusty wind and higher than we’d like seas with a misting of rain now and then was the extent of it. But the Grenadines are not the Virgin Islands. The wind is higher and the only protection is reefs. So even a heavy boat like Wahoo moves around a bit. 

Union Island is a pretty place with a brightly coloured market and main street. The Happy Bar is built on the man made reef of conch shells and you never know whom you’ll meet. The wind surfers practise their jumps and turns in the harbour. All this made for a delightful spot to spend a couple of days. 

Our last night before heading to Grenada was spent at Sandy Island again. Lindy loved the spot and there was no real reason for Roy & I to go back into Tyrrel Bay. 

Building a rock sculpture on Sandy Island

Nice to have it appreciated!

part of the underwater sculpture park

On Sunday we headed 28 NM South to Grenada. It was a lovely day for a downwind run with the main sail hoisted. We passed Kick’em Jenny without a sign of the turbulence which is always a possibility from the underwater volcano. Our first night in Grenada was meant to be spent in Dragon’s Bay but the rolling was so bad we went around the corner to Molinere Bay. Dragon’s Bay is known for the underwater sculptures put there in 2013 to provide an artistic man made reef. Unfortunately one year later Hurricane Ivan did some damage and the day we were there was overcast and windy. Not the best conditions for snorkelling. 

After an hour of swimming around we decided our best bet was to move on to the South Coast of Grenada which was to be Wahoo's summer home.

A rough 15 NM passage brought us around the Southwest corner of Grenada to the 12 Bays that line the South coast. We bypassed True Blue as we knew that would require a marina stay, took a look at rolly Prickly Bay, central station for cruisers, but finally decided on anchoring in quieter Mt. Hartman Bay. This seemed like a good choice. Enough cruisers around for some company, Secret Harbor Marina for services and not as rolly as Prickly Bay. None of the Bays on the South coast are exceedingly deep and the swells roll around the headlands and find their way inside. At least Mt Hartman has a reef offering some protection.

Roy & I felt the thrill of having completed our journey through the Eastern Caribbean. Only 660NM but 18 countries and nearly every island. We’re finally at the magic number of 11.59* latitude N. (IE, below 12 degrees and now below the hurricane belt). While we haven’t conquered the Eastern Caribbean we have learned to live with its winds and high seas. There weren’t many days when the wind was under 25kts or the seas under 6 -7 feet. Our anchoring technique got better and the anchor has held us safely through 45kt winds. We don’t even blink when the forecast calls for weather that we would never have poked our nose into before. 

Cocoa Pods for chocolate, yummy!

Swimming in the water fall

Grenada is called the Spice Island and its main exports are nutmeg, mace, cinnamon and cacao. Of course there’s always a little rum. So for Lindy’s last two days we wanted to explore a bit of this spicy island. 

One day was spent at Grand Anse beach, 3 miles of soft white sand fronting the turquoise waters of the Caribbean. Picture postcard stuff! The last day we went inland up the mountains of lovely Grenada to a waterfall and a Spice Farm where the paths where made from crushed nutmeg shells. Heavenly!!

 We were so sorry when the time with Lindy was over. We hated to see her go and will miss her here in sweet Grenada

Lindy at Grand Anse Beach, Grenada

  

The Iconic Island Drink  - A Painkiller

Not sure what pain you’re killing here in the islands, maybe the stings of a sunburn or sea urchin. 

Anyway, the Painkiller is the drink, your choice of 2 - 4 shots of rum.

Our favourite was from a beach bar in Nevis

For 1 Drink 

Multiply for a Partyyyyy!!!

2, 3, or 4 oz of rum (depending on your level of pain)

4 oz pineapple juice

1 oz orange juice

1 oz coconut cream

sprinkle liberally with nutmeg

serve over ice - umbrella optional

Grenadines - Ultimate Caribbean!

That's It! We're Here!! - we can finally call ourselves Cruisers with a capital "C"!

Anchorage Tabago Cays

That was the feeling upon finally dropping anchor in Bequia (Beckway). Not that Bequia was so far from Wallilabou, St. Vincent, our last stop. We departed the morning of May 17 and just 5 hours and a15NM broad reach brought us to Bequia, the Northern and largest island of the Grenadines. But this was it, what we'd been aiming for all along.

The Grenadines are a group of nearly 100 small islands, islets and reefs in the Southern part of the Windwards. Most belong to St Vincent but a few, Carriacou and Petit Martinique, in the South belong to Grenada. Considered one of the greatest sailing areas in the world. It's where you find all you were dreaming of when you planned to come to the Caribbean. White sand beaches, coral reefs, coconut palm trees, beach bars and restaurants that are not much more than a hut and a BBQ grill. A variety of small islands not co-opted by mega hotel chains and huge cruise ships. So if the coral isn't as pristine as it once was, the fish not as plentiful and most of the islands have limited services...who cares. The colour of the waters vary from cobalt to pale turquoise to everything in-between. Wonderful anchorages are everywhere; some look out beyond a sheltering reef directly into the Atlantic with Africa your next landfall. You know that every second you can stay is magical!

Wooden boats under the trees in Bequia

All the islands are small. Those that are inhabited mostly have a subsistence economy eking out a living by fishing, farming and the money that visiting yachts bring in. The people are friendly. We're no longer locking our dingy or the companionway hatch! A few islands have become home to small luxurious hotels where guests are not interested in being seen. One, Mustique, is private with yachts allowed there only for their picturesque quality to the owners, I guess. 

Bequia & Carriacou were famous for boat building. Prior to the 1970s trading schooners built in those islands plied the waters from Trinidad Northward up the island chain. There is still a boat building tradition. Locally built wooden boats still fish the waters and try to best each other in local regattas.

Bequia has a history of whaling and is still allowed to take 4 humpback whales a year, but they must be fished in small open sailboats with hand thrown harpoons. Needless to say they often don't get any.

Tanisha showed us the whale museum. Her grandfather is head harpooner.

Bequia

Path along the cliffs to the bars & beaches of Bequia

Admiralty Bay the main anchorage was considered home to England's fleet prior to the discovery of English Harbor, in Antigua. So sailing ships have been at home here a long, long time. The inner harbor nearest the main town of Port Elizabeth has been taken over by moorings but there is still plenty of good holding near Princess Margaret Beach. 

This good holding is important for while we were here the trade winds were seriously blowing and due to the hills surrounding the anchorage they'd get held up for awhile then come gusting down into the bay. We'd see winds go from 13kts up to 40kts within minutes then back down to do it all over again. Wild! Luckily most days the winds would go down during  the evenings and night before picking up again with daytime heating.

In Bequia water & diesel come to us!

Bequia understands boating. So there's no wonder that several ship chandleries are here plus sail makers and mechanics. In Bequia service comes to your boat. Daffodil's Marine Service delivers water and fuel plus takes care of your laundry. Wonderful small bars and restaurants hug the waterside. The island has worked to make it convenient to visit them all. They've built an amazing set of steps and walkways on the face of the cliffs overlooking the bay to get you from town to Princess Margaret beach and on to Lower Beach. We fell in love with Papa's, run by Gert, who is Swedish and his Bequian wife. The restaurant sits high on a hill, open to the breeze and with a great view of Admiralty Bay. In the month we lingered we found ourselves there for lunch, dinner, cocktails and soursop ice cream more often than we want to admit. 

Baby turtles at the Turtle Hatchery

Teen Age Turtle

There's a turtle hatchery where over 900 hawksbill turtles have been reared and released in the past 20 years. This has greatly improved their normal 1 in 3000 odds of survival. The hatchery has all been the work of one man, Brother King, who once fished turtles and now saves them. As it takes over 20 years for a turtle to return to her beach and lay her first clutch of eggs, Mr King is hoping to start seeing his first turtles return soon to lay there eggs on the Bequia beaches he watches over. 

Provisioning is great here there's a Rasta market for fruits and vegetables that can get rowdy but the produce makes braving the ribbing worthwhile. Doris's Fresh Food market, in an entirely hand varnished Bequia house, has such things as anchovy stuffed olives for Roy's martinis and leg of lamb for a special dinner onboard. You can see why we stayed so long!

Mustique

Looking for Mick at Basil's Bar 

No Mick but tortoises are everywhere!

14 NM Southeast brought us to this private island with its picture postcard "Yachting Center". Corporate CEO's and rock stars like Mick Jagger and David Bowie have homes here. No wonder cameras are frowned on. But Mustique is home to world famous Basil's Bar which hosts a Wednesday night Jump Up and every year near the end of January they have "Basil's Blues Festival", voted one of the Caribbean's 10 Best Music Festivals. Two hotels are open to the general public and, we heard, have great chefs. The anchorage was rolly and our finances are still stressed from the tours in Dominica and Martinique so maybe next year. 

Breakfast at Sweetie Pie Bakery and still no Mick Jagger!

Tobago Cays

Preparing to snorkel. Look at that water!

A 14NM Southwest, nearly downwind, run brought us to the Cays. A few small islands sit behind a large horseshoe reef and if you anchor here it's just you, the reef and the Atlantic Ocean. It was all we had hoped for. It's one of the few places in the East Caribbean where you anchor on the Eastern (windward) side of an island. I got up to watch the sun rise and saw a shark while snorkelling   Also here at last we saw the Southern Cross rising low on the horizon. It was visible in the night sky now that we could see South without obstructions. 

Local vendors came up and offered freshly caught red snapper which we cooked immediately. We snorkeled out on the reef plus around one of the small islets and then in the turtle sanctuary. It was great!!

Pinch yourself, life is too perfect!!

So of course something had to give - our phones quit! What!! We're trying to re-rent 7th St plus help arrange Lindy's visit, she's flying to meet us - Yey!! 
Is it the cell towers? We ARE at the edge of the world! 
Other cruisers are using their phones - something's wrong!!
So after only two days we motored the 5 miles over to Union Island to get wifi and the ability to call AT&T using Viber (VoiP service). 

Union Island

Home to a world class Kite Boarding school, a tiny island with a tiny bar called Happy Island and another East facing anchorage behind a reef. Plus a front street that Crayola must have painted. 

Colourful Front Street Market

Phone problem - Roy's phone number had been hacked and AT&T had shut down our account to stop International calls from being made. A morning and afternoon of frustration finally resulted in my phone being turned back on and a new sim being sent to 7th St for Roy. How can this happen? The phone and sim are here on the boat!!!! Grrrrrr!

We're enjoying Union. Did a little hiking, bought some conch, love the market LOVE Happy Bar and sundowners while watching the kite boarders perform for the boats in the anchorage. We even took the shuttle and spent a day at Sparrow Beach. Been here a week, how time does fly.

 

Happy Bar at Happy Hour

Happy Island built of shells, home of Happy Bar

Our aim is to clear out of SVG soon. Customs is here in Union. We'll then head 5 miles South to Petit St Vincent(PSV) and Petit Martinique(PM) before moving on to Carriacou and clearing in to Grenada. Petit Martinique and Cariacou belong to Grenada but the two Petit islands are so small no one expects clearance in either one. 

View from Fort Hill overlooking the reef of Union Island and looking towards Petit St Vincent and Petit Martinque

It's all set. Lindy will fly into Grenada June 11 then take the ferry to meet us in Carriacou. Plus John Edward and Laura have booked their trip to meet us in Grenada on July 6th.
July 7th is John Edward's 40th birthday (my baby boy!!!).

Roy slaughtering the coconuts!

My New Favorite Sundowner

Rum

Fresh coconut water

Fresh lime

ice

Any amount, any order ...

"You put di rum in di coconut you drink it all up!"

Sailing down the Windward Islands

The colours of Martinique!

On March 17, 2015 we sailed nearly due South to Martinique, the first island of the Windward Chain. After Martinique the islands take a slight westward turn to St Lucia, St Vincent and the Grenadines, The chain of islands make an arc that reaches toward the East in the Leewards then turns to head West once you’re in the Windwards. See the map. The Trade Winds blow from the East so as you go down the chain theoretically you will sail a close reach until you reach Martinique then a broad reach as you head towards Grenada. Broad reaches are really really nice! In reality the winds rarely blow directly from East they blow ENE or ESE and as luck would have it it seems to always be blowing from whichever way you’re heading. :-)  But on the day we left for Martinique we had one of those blissful sails with winds 15g18 kts (15 gusting to 18 knots) ENE that had us broad reaching the 35 NM into St Pierre. With only the mainsail raised we glided past Mt Pelee and into our first port in the French island of Martinique. (Until some friendly soul comes from the US we won’t get our repaired jib furler back.)

I ask, now that we’re in Martinique, just where do you buy “a sweat stained Bogart suit and an African Parakeet”? (from Jimmy Buffet’s "Migration")

4800 feet high, ominous Mt Pelee 

The coastal city of St Pierre under the volcano of Mt Pelee is the Pompeii of the New World. At 8am on May 8,1902, Mt Pelee erupted on an Easter Sunday killing 28,000 people and burying the city that many called the Paris of the Caribbean. Nearly everyone in the most populous and wealthiest city of the Caribbean died that day. If the Federal Flood following Katrina was a political killing of the citizens of New Orleans, the destruction and death in St Pierre was the same on a much much higher order. Martinique was in the midst of an important election, election day was to be May11, and politicking was more important than heeding the signs of escaping insects, snakes and birds as well as rumbles and mud flows that had occurred throughout April. The powers that be needed the conservative city of St Pierre to go to the poles and prevent the Socialists from wresting control of government from the powerful plantation party that was in place. Therefore the citizens were assured that no eruption was imminent. 

the cell that saved Auguste Ciparis

One of the few people to survive was a prisoner, Auguste Ciparis. His cell faced away form the flow and had only a tiny opening. Found buried under many feet of ash after four days, his sentence (for assault) was suspended and he spent the rest of his life touring with Barnum and Baileys Circus.  

Even now, over a hundred years later, the town echoes with the tragedy of that day. Only about 6,000 people live in a city that was once home to nearly 30,000. Mostly empty buildings with just part of a wall or two are a major sight everywhere you look and a once thriving harbour is now home only to small fishing boats and cruisers like us. 

Entrance stairs are all that's left of St Pierre's magnificent theatre

French Goodies

We sailed from St. Pierre after just a couple of days and headed South along the coast to Martinique’s capital city, Fort de France. Here we anchored in one of the nicest city anchorages we’ve seen. We were right under the massive walls of Fort St. Louis. We had a fabulous waterfront dingy dock next to a park and the modern city of Fort de France to explore. However, of all the places in Martinique nowhere is as lovely as the town of St. Anne on the South coast. The French islands are not tourism junkies. Both islands, Martinique and Guadeloupe, are Departments of France (like being a state in the US) with all the privileges and responsibilities of citizenship. They are the largest and most prosperous of the Eastern Caribbean Islands with tourism making up only a small part of their economy and the cruising community virtually ignored. WiFi is spotty for visitors and dinghy docks are often difficult to access. You need to at least try and speak French and everything closes on Sunday. On the other hand bread, cheese, paté, good highways and an easy system of clearing in and out get high marks. But St. Anne has it all! Plus a beautiful wide open anchorage and a great beach. We loved it here and the madras fabrics are an inspiration for my next Mardi Gras costume! 

The anchorage in beautiful St Anne, Martinique

Diamond rock on the coast of Martinique was commissioned as a ship by the British navy and attacked by French Admiral Villeneuve in one of the stranger battles during the Napoleonic Wars!

Diamond Rock

who passes up a banana train tour!

Sailing along in Martinique with friends Bill and Maureen Woodroffe on S/V Kalunamoo was fun. All of the French villages are charming. We rented a car for several days and visited rum distilleries, the birthplace of Empress Josephine and a banana plantation among other things. Kalunamoo is a 47’ Vagabond ketch not quite the Wanderer from Captain Ron but a very close first cousin. Like many cruisers we’ve met this year they came down from the East Coast with the Salty Dawg Rally. These rallys are a great way to get to the Caribbean. Many boats (I think I heard 67 this year)  travel "alone but together" with weather routing and daily checkins offering safety and companionship on the 1500 mile journey from Hampton Roads, VA to Virgin Gorda, BVI. The Papa of the rallys is the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) that crosses the Atlantic from the Canaries to St Lucia every year in October. We see loads of European boats who have sailed 2700 NM across the Atlantic and entered the Caribbean this way. Each year about 200 boats participate.

Buying from the vegetable boat in Rodney Bay

After nearly a month in French Martinique, enjoying the charming villages and daily fresh baguettes, we continued our journey and headed for our next port of call in St. Lucia. St. Lucia is part of the British Commonwealth of nations but an independent country. St. Lucia, Dominica and St. Vincent are the poorest of the islands. The last blog told of Dominica’s success in using eco-toursim and cruisers to make modest economic gains. That island doesn’t lend itself to vast resorts with white sand beaches so after much trial they are moving in a different direction and cruisers have responded positively. St. Lucia went the other way. It opened itself up to many fabulous resorts on the order of Sandals. Here guests don’t have to see the down and dirty in the island but rather spend their days in a more pampered environment. A high poverty and crime rate make this one of the hot crime spots on the Cruisers Safety and Security Net. Dinghy thefts and even boardings have made cruisers leery and for the first time ever we locked ourselves in the boat each night. Our first stop was Rodney Bay. After some unpleasant notoriety they have instituted a more robust security system both in the marina and the anchorage. Not one incident has been reported since the change which is a great thing as Rodney Bay is home to the ARC and many cruisers use it as a home port. We certainly found it amazing with a swimming pool, good groceries and duty free shopping as well as several beaches and a historic fort to hike up for great views and plenty of cardio exercise. 

Marigot Bay at sunset with LaDivinia moored right behind us for the very last time.

10 MN South was the lovely and well protected Bay of Marigot (seems nearly every island has a Marigot). This one also has a 5 star Capella Resort and for the $30US price of a mooring you get the use of the resort pools, bars, restaurants, gym and spa services. This is where our friends from LaDivina met up with us as they moved back up the island chain to leave their boat in St. Martin. Amazing how quickly those 2 days flew by but spending one of them just being lazy around the Capella pool with poolside drinks and lunch sure was great.

4 intrepid sailors - Roy & I with Dave and Jane and just one more cocktail!

Approaching the Pitons

Our last stop in St. Lucia was an anchorage between the Pitons. They are part of a World Heritage Site that comprises the Piton Mitan volcanic ridge. Truly a magnificent backdrop for a night at anchor. Unfortunately, the weather was not the best so we’ll plan a longer visit for them and the nearby town of Soufriere on our trip North next year.

On to St. Vincent and the Grenadines...

from the movie

The real thing

A 34 NM lumpy sail which ended up being a beat into the wind brought us to St. Vincent and the town of Wallilabou. St. Vincent has not figured out the tourism market at all and many cruisers sail right by it or only stop for an overnight, not even getting off of the boat. While it is not a hot crime spot on the CSSN, it isn’t known for safety either.  Unlike St. Lucia there is little organised cruising support, tours and restaurants. The one bright spot is Wallilabou Bay. Pirates of the Caribbean set up shop here for the first movie and returned for the other two. The set Disney built along the bay front is still worth a visit. Owners of the restaurant there have done a lot with a little and cruisers can feel safe tying up to the mooring balls with the help of the boat boys who act as line handlers and water taxies. But there are few boats and many hungry guys so a cruiser can easily feel intimidated by the 5 or 6 vendors coming up and wanting to do a little business. 

Pirates of the Caribbean set at Wallilabou St Vincent

Suggestion to cruisers - spend 10 to 15EC with each one. It's not that much money to you and it goes a long way. 

Note to everyone else: EC = Eastern Caribbean Currency. $1US = $2.7EC

Another hike another swinging bridge

We ended up meeting a boat with a mate from St. Martinville!. So we stayed an extra day and the 4 of us shared the island tour with a visit to a waterfall, lunch and a drive through the marijuana towns. Yes, St. Vincent is managing its economic problems by ignoring the sizeable established business of growing and exporting weed. 

The “twins” Ron and Ronnie, referenced in Doyle’s Cruising Guide, are very good, responsible and hard working. Ron met our boat and helped us with the mooring and tying our stern to the dock. He wasn’t pushy but offered either a short or long tour for the next day. We decided on the long one. Ronnie then took over as our guide along with Cecil Doyle, an ex-policeman, as our driver. They were wonderful, can’t say enough about how much fun we had and how beautiful the island is. The trip to the waterfall was great and ended in a refreshing swim. Lunch was delicious overlooking Cumberland Bay - they really went all out to make sure we had a good time. Later that evening Ronnie came to the boat with a gift from Cecil, our driver, he’s also a farmer and sent over eggs, tomatoes and cabbage plus this wonderful bar of spiced chocolate. Ronnie showed us how to make a drink out of it that’s quite popular throughout St Vincent and the Grenadines. It was a wonderful stay and made us want to help make this a regular stop for all cruisers.

FUN FACT: St. Vincent and Belize have a linked heritage. While other islands were being settled by Europeans St. Vincent was still a Carib held island. So when s slave ship sunk in 1635 off of St. Vincent the slaves who survived and made it ashore eventually married into the Carib tribe. The combination was especially fierce and were called Black Caribs (regular Carib indians are light brown in colour and have slight Asian features). The British eventually settled the island and the violent Black Caribs were subdued and relocated to Honduras, some making their way into present day Belize! We now call them the Garifuna, though Roy says, as a kid, he knew them as Caribs.

Now we’re anchored in Bequia (pronounced Beckway). St. Vincent is more than the main island it is really SVG, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The Grenadines are supposedly the high point of the Caribbean islands. We plan to stay awhile with lots of time to explore.

Rum - Yum!

Traditional West Indian Rum Punch

One part sour (fresh lime juice)

Two parts sweet (cane syrup)

Three parts strong(rum, of course)

Four parts weak(fresh fruit juice or water or a combination)

5 drops of Angostura Bitters (they're made in Trinidad)

Grated Nutmeg

Served Well Chilled with lots of Ice