Monday, April 21, 2014

Jamaica Farewell






Jerk Chicken and Red Stripe with "Festival", Yumm!
It was a high wind passage from Cuba. Forecasts had called for moderate conditions with 15 kts of wind leaving Santiago de Cuba building to 20-23Kts mid passage than back down to 15kts on our approach. Seas were forecast to be no more than 6 ft in swells with a long interval all out of the East to South East making for a broad reach throughout the 120 NM/ 24 hour SSW passage.

Unfortunately as the winds started to build they never stopped! Eventually reaching 35kts with seas building as high as 15 ft. Luckily the direction was correct so it was a broad reach and Wahoo did her thing rising up the swells peering over and then sailing  down. We had already doused the jib and were sailing with a reefed main so we had a steadying sail already in place. Actually it was about as good as possible under the conditions and while neither of us slept we made Port Antonio in a reasonable amount of time as we were able to sail at about 5kts throughout it all.

While it's not something I want to do again I must say that the really bad part was wondering what the Windward Passage had in store for another Marcomb. While we weren't directly in the passage we were in the approach to it. For any of you who know the story of my brother and his wife, Roger and Lindy, when they hit a storm in this passage and barely escaped with their lives you'll understand my feelings.


Port Antonio - street work in progress
But Jamaica was all we could wish for and then some! As soon as we reached the entrance to the harbour its protecting arms sheltered us from the seas. Once inside, the mountains calmed the effects of the wind. This is the most sheltered and lovely harbour we've ever been in. The dockmaster said that even when Hurricane Sandy passed over there were no ill effects.


The marina, Errol Flynn, is named for the famous actor as he kept a boat here as well as a home. In fact his wife just died and left their 2000 Jamaican acres to their grandson. It's also the best equipped marina we've ever been to. There are both slips and an anchorage, power, water and WiFi, plus a laundry. Also onsite is a pool with bar, beach with beach bar plus a restaurant and bar - all overlooking the beautiful harbour with its surrounding hills and mountains.

The Harbour from a Port Antonio hilltop
Port Antonio is on the NE coast. The town and market is an easy walk away and the lush Jamaican mountains are all around. Its away from the touristy parts of the island and yet offers plenty for the visitors who come and stay for awhile. Beautiful homes dot the hillsides looking out into the Caribbean Sea. I gather they mostly don't belong to Jamaicans.

Having visited twice on a cruise this time we found a much more natural Jamaica filled with the delight of mixing with locals in a relaxed setting.

Roy being Roy at Boston Beach

Boston Beach where Jerk was "invented"













Getting Jerk chicken
Eating Jerk Chicken
We finally felt like we were on vacation and entertained ourselves with a trip to Kingston to the Bob Marley museum and Port Royal, another excursion took us into the mountains for a hike to  Reach waterfall. We enjoyed beaches with their powdery pink sand and crystal clear waters.

We ate lots and lots of jerk chicken and pork. Jerk is served with a seasoned fried dough they call Festival. No one could explain the name. But it sure is good.


Part of Reach Waterfalls. We jumped in the falls, swam at the falls and went through a cave into the falls. Regular tourist! 


  
We hate to say it as we could have stayed lots longer but JAMAICA FAREWELL!

The marina even seems to have its own Rasta -rafter who comes to the boat to offer coconut water, bananas, breadfruit and ganja.



Tomorrow we're off for a 165NM passage to Ile a Vache, the island on the SW coast of Haiti which is a must stop on every cruisers bucket list. Benign weather is in the forecast as we actually cross the Windward Passage. All the weather forecasters say the same so lets hope the stars align and we actually do get 5 - 10kts of wind with seas no more than 4 ft all from the East which is the only bad part of the forecast as usual -  we're going East.


























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