Belize City

Lighthouse at English Caye

We finally managed to leave San Pedro. Getting through the reef was a breeze on our second time around. Of course, to be on the safe side, we had saved the track of our arrival on the Imac's chart plotter. This is a pretty nifty feature when you are sailing in a tricky area. Once outside we set our sights on the Belize City ship channel which is wide and deep. But rather than do the trip in one long day we stopped for awhile behind English Caye and talked to the old, retired lighthouse keeper who was a friend of Walter's (who in Belize wasn't!). Then we stopped one of the Belizean fishing sailboats to buy lobsters and snapper for supper. We anchored for the night behind Middle Long Caye. Over and over we are grateful for  Freya Rauscher's cruising guide for Belize, Mexico and Rio Dulce. Even our new charts are not as comprehensive as the hand drawn charts in her guide.

The Fishing Sailboat

The Fish

Now we are moored at Cucumber Beach Marina or, Old Belize. It seems to have two names. Our first day here we just chilled after the hectic pace of San Pedro and cleaned up the boat. So nice having all the water we need! Then on Saturday we couldn't stay away so grabbed a cab for the 4 miles into the City. Started at "The Fort" and had a nostalgic lunch at Fort George Hotel (now the Radisson Fort George) prior to walking around the city. 


I've read Belize City is built on mahogany chips and broken rum bottles. Settled by "out of work pirates" who came ashore to chop logwood when there was no Spanish ships to plunder. Somehow I can't help but look at the city with "loving eyes". I see the old colonial architecture which is slowly decaying, the hand turned swing bridge, the sights and sounds mingling with the refrain of long ago stories that we've all heard Walter tell a dozen times. I love hearing the sing song of Creole spoken on the streets. 

Roy on the old 1930s Swing Bridge looking into Belize City Harbor

Miss Jane

 Its fun meeting back up with old friends and hearing them talk about who's who with the constant reference of Belizean surnames filtering through their speech. We spent a couple of days with Mario and Soli Arguelles. Had dinner with Johnny Valdes, Roy's old school friend and Rebekah's grandfather. Turns out Rebekah's in New Orleans for the summer. :(( Best of all we met with (drum rolls from the relatives, please) Miss Jane Usher. This lady, who was in school with Roy's Aunt Marie and a best friend of his mom and dad is quite the institution. She's the sister of George Price, who's considered the father of modern Belize and PM for more years then we can count. She also started the Holy Redeemer Credit Union and not only is it still going stronger and stronger; she, at 95, is still working away at it every day.

Used to be our favorite hotel - 4 Fort St 

Craig St - the house where Roy grew up

The roofs of Belize City from the top of the 5-story Matalon Building built by Soli and Mario's sons!

The church where John Edward was baptized

We spent a day at the Belize Zoo which was such a treat!

Our plan is to slowly sail down the coast to Placencia, stopping at as many palm fringed sandy cayes as we can. We will be sailing along the reef where "eyeball" navigation is called for. Once again we will be depending on the cruising guide for waypoints, approaches and anchoring hints. Once in Placencia we are looking forward to Sammye and Grouper's visit.


Entrance Belize Channel  17 19.60N  88 01.10W
Channel Turn (to Middle Long Caye, Enlish Caye) 17 20.30N  88 02.81W
Middle Long Caye Anchorage  17 19.35N  88 03.31W

Cucumber Beach Marina Approach 17 27.91N  88 14.67W - be careful in summer of 2012 approach channel only carried 5ft 2in at mid-tide. Its a mud bottom so that helps.