Cruising In Abaco

The string of islands in the Northern Bahamas are called Abaco. They run Northwest to Southeast with the Atlantic Ocean to the East and Florida to West on the Little Bahama Bank.  Both the Spanish and the French attempted colonies in Abaco but both decided that other areas of the New World were more interesting. The British colonized Eleuthera and New Providence Island (Nassau) but no permanent settlements were attempted in the Abacos. The cays ("keys") and reefs of the Abacos made a natural home to pirates preying on ships bringing treasures from the New World back to the Old. In the 1770s English loyalists fled the patriots who were declaring their independence from England. Some chose to settle in Abaco.  Records show that nearly 2000 loyalists arrived on Grand Bahama with their slaves and belongings expecting to farm. They were sorely disappointed to fine such thin soil and most left. Eventually their numbers diminished to about 400 but they left their mark.

Bahamas or Williamsburg???

All through the Abacos the little towns look like miniature New England villages. Eventually they were joined by migrants from the southern Bahamas, Cuba, Florida and other Spanish settlements. The people of Abaco had to be self-sufficient, the only supply ship traveled to Nassau and back once a year! They built a life around fishing, sponging, wrecking and farming.  They established New Plymouth Town on Green Turtle Cay and it remained the government seat into the 19th Century. To this day no one gets really rich but no one starves, I heard there is 0 unemployment in Abaco.

Approaching New Plymouth

We sailed along the the reef stopping in quiet secluded cays where we snorkeled, tried to fish and watched sunsets then we headed for some of the more populated cays.

Goal in New Plymouth

New Plymouth Town on Green Turtle Cay was the first we came to, a haven for sport fisherman - population of about 450. There are two mooring fields, White Sound and Black Sound. White Sound has the large sport fishing boats and the Yacht Club, Black Sound is home to New Plymouth Town, and our mooring ball. New Plymouth is the sister city to Key West, settled by descendents of some of the same families. We particularly enjoyed the two bars, Pineapples and Sundowners, loved their happy hours and regulars.

Sundowners

After leaving Green Turtle it was time to brave the Whale Cut and sail to Great Guana Cay in the southern Abacos. Only shoal draft boats can stay in the Sea of Abaco. Every one else has to go through a deep cut in the reef around Whale Cay out into the Atlantic. Slow moving boats, like sailboats, have to be careful. Even on nice days tidal currents running opposite the wind and waves, created way out in the Atlantic, can cause a condition called a Rage. No problem for us though, just a beautiful day of sailing in the Bahamas.

Just like Walter said, Gumbo Limbo grows next to the Poisonwood Tree

Nippers

Great Rocks on the Atlantic below Nippers

Great Guana is even smaller then Green Turtle with about 200 people. But, it has the most popular bar in the Abacos. Nippers, perched on a bluff overlooks the Atlantic and the longest beach in the Bahamas. Its what you envision when you think Bahamas. The reef comes close to shore and the views are spectacular. Plus, Great Guana has Milo, an old character who sells everything from T shirts to conch from his little yellow shop.

Steps at Nippers lead down to this beach and the Atlantic Ocean

 (Patty and Armand - this is the spot we've been looking for. Armand can play piano, I'll help Milo grow tomatoes, Patty can handle the PR and Roy can find lots of stuff to fix. We'll all swell Great Guana's population.)

Man O War harbor's entrance, pretty tight  

 

And so are the harbor moorings

After a couple of days at Great Guana we needed some engine parts so we headed to Man O War Cay, population 300, and all of them named Albury - or so it seemed.  This cay is noted for its boat building and lack of alcoholic beverages. Man O War was settled by one young couple whose religious beliefs against alcohol are still seen on the Cay today. Several of the local boat builders still make the occasional "Abaco" Dingy boats in their native woods of Madeira mahogany and other Bahamian hardwoods. They are considered works of art and sought after by those who appreciate fine old world wooden vessels. We bought belts and engine parts.

Not only is the boat a work of art but check out the little ways its on!!

From Man O War we sailed 7 miles to Hopetown, definitely the prettiest of the towns. Hopetown has the candystripe lighthouse that everyone associates with the Bahamas.

It still uses a kerosene and a Fresnel Lens to send its light out and warn sailors of the dangerous reefs. We wanted to spend a little more time here but were getting uneasy with the weather reports about the passage south to Eleuthera.

Lighthouse keeper lighting the Fresnel Lens

Queen's Highway, Hopetown

That Breadfruit tree

Which Bounty voyage?

     




 So on Friday we headed south to Little Harbor and on Saturday we sailed out into the Atlantic for our 60 mile passage south.  Saturday evening we arrived safely in the northern part of the Eleuthera chain. We first dropped anchor in the all weather anchorage on Royal Island and had a lazy swim before watching the sunset.
 
 The Atlantic crossing and its deep blue water. Later the storm
on the horizon passed us by.

Monday we sail over to Spanish Wells and start enjoying the next phase of the trip as we wait for Mary to join us on Wednesday.

 
By the way we're on skype now - so all you who have computers with cameras can talk AND see.  dale.royross

Always stop for sunset