Heading (towards) Home

Saturday, July 20, we fly from Cancun to Houston. Its sad to leave Wahoo. We've spent the past week getting her ready for whatever comes. Hopefully, not a hurricane. This year like future years she will be in harm's way. We tell ourselves it would be that way even if she was home in New Orleans but its still brings worry lines to our foreheads.

We are in a marina in the lagoon and it is The "hurricane hole" of the area. But Isla Mujeres is not a place that commuter cruisers, like us, usually choose for hurricane season. Normally they head to the Rio Dulce like we did last year. We just couldn't bring ourselves to "going backwards" and felt if we had to come through Belize again we'd be right back in the same spot next year and would NEVER leave the Western Caribbean. So our plans to cross over to the Eastern Caribbean are dictating our decision. Fingers Crossed!!

Sebastien and his Dinghy came to meet us!

We sailed into Isla without a hitch riding a 2 knot current that carried us most of the way. Sweet! Sebastien, who lives on his boat here at Marina Del Sol, came out to meet us and guide us through the lagoon to the marina. It's a tricky, shallow route. So good to see him and Lily again. We feel confident that the boat will be watched over as Seb lives on Sea Rooster right across the pier from us. So home for Wahoo is Marina Del Sol, Isla Mujeres, Mexico.


We took a day off from chores to enjoy Sebastien and Lily's company. Seb took us out on Sea Rooster for  an afternoon swim, Lily drove us into Cancun for some parts, and we ended the day feasting on the last of the Belizean lobster we'd "caught".  A lovely day ending with a great sunset.

Nothing left but the shells

Roy took this from the top of the mast

Marina Del Sol is a barebones marina. Meaning none of the great amenities we enjoyed at Mario's last year. But its safe and has all the necessities. Both the owner and his brother live onsite and they care for about 30 boats. So Roy's taken off the chart plotter and wind-vane to come home and be repaired. We've repaired leaks, cleaned inside and out, changed the oil, filled the diesel tanks, removed the jib, tied up the main, secured the dingy, taken off the bimini, added extra dock lines and now what's left is to get her under wraps and head for home.

We look forward to coming back to Isla Mujeres and we'll love the ease of provisioning in Mexico for our next cruising season.

PS: We'll be in New Orleans August 1st - 10th maybe a little longer for me.

Checking In to Cozumel

Yesterday and today are why cruising can be so much fun! Roy and I want to share the silliness.

down comes the Belize flag

We were able to sail out of the reef at San Pedro Sunday (July 7 - John Edward's birthday). We left by 7am and knew we would sail 154 nm, our longest sail yet, and it would take about 24 hours. We had decided that as we had a short weather window we would make it all the way to Cozumel and not make the one overnight stop we could. The sail went pretty much as planned except that we had about 15kts of wind from the NE instead of 10 kts from the SE and the waves were 4 - 6ft  with 1 - 3 second intervals instead of 3 - 5ft with  8 - 10 second intervals. The difference between a nice beam reach and a choppy day and night. But we only had the edge of 2 squalls and we had nearly a 2 knot current going with us; whose complaining. We made Cozumel around 5am and worried for a little while that it would be too dark to anchor. But the sun rose as expected and by 6am we were snoozing.

At 9 we woke up. The plan being to get checked in, get a MX simm card for the phone, find some WiFi and get a good night's sleep and then sail the 53 nm (7-8 hrs) to Isla.

Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha HA Ha Ha Ha

Totally oblivious of what was to come

The Capitania De Puerto is right near the anchorage and last year you could pull the dinghy up on a little sandy beach nearby. First off we noticed that this had been roped off. We would have to land the dinghy across some coral on a sand spit. Roy waited for the highest possible wave and we surfed in, I jumped out and tried to pull us up on the sand. Ok, so now we are wet and sandy but the dinghy's secure.

Inside  the first officer called a second then a third for assistance. There's that  sinking feeling. Eventually it was agreed that they would start the process but we would need to go to the airport then to immigration downtown and then to the hospital. The hospital we asked? "Amigos no problemo, no pay at the hospital". So after they made copies of our passport and filled out a gozillion forms we hailed a taxi. At the airport we spotted a series of 3 windows: Customs, Agriculture and something unknown. Now in Mexico - you can stand in an office or at an office window forever because to the guys inside... you are invisible! I don't know, is the window opaque from the inside? We tried the first window, could see the Customs agent on his cell phone. He didn't see us. The second window, two people totally involved with their computers, they didn't see us. At the third window our distress led to an answer. Ahhhh, a young lady looked up. Roy was waving papers and I kept repeating "Stamp, Stamp?" I'm not sure, was it the yelling of "STAMP" or the rather insistent knocking. All 3 windows conferred and eventually decided someone needed to inspect the boat.  Hospital, we asked? No, of course not, we didn't need the hospital, they took care of it all.

Cozumel for cruise ships Not Cruisers!

We were getting somewhere now! Two guys thought they pulled the long straws and were getting out of the office, yippee! We all hopped in a truck and drove to the waterfront. One look at our dinghy and these guys, not dressed for dingying, were sending out worried signals. One of them had an idea. He instructed us to get the dinghy and meet them over at the cruise dock. They dropped us off and we manfully managed to pull and push the dinghy back through the sand, over the coral up the cresting wave and get it launched. Wet Again. Soon there's me, Roy and 2 overdressed burly custom men in the dinghy heading to Wahoo. How we managed to get everyone aboard is still a mystery. But they dutifully "inspected" our boat and to prove they had been there, confiscated 1onion, 2 mangoes, 3 tomatoes and half of a lime we'd left on the counter - left us the garlic though.

Back in the dinghy for the reverse trip. Thoughtfully, they dropped us off at Immigration, downtown. Of course, when we knocked we were told they closed for the day at 1pm (it was 1:15). We must have looked more than a little of what goes for postal in Mexico because an officer came outside to talk to us. He said he'd sign the papers and take care of us if we took care of him. Of course we would :-)). Soon, we're all in the nicely air conditioned office and zip, zip, zip papers are signed. Now we're told that we must take these papers, all with one stamp a piece, over to the bank to pay. All the paying is done at the bank. Its hot and still outside but, who cares, we trot those 6 blocks to the bank just knowing we're finally nearly done. Dead stop! The bank line is about 20 deep. We wait, wait and wait some more. Its finally our turn and Roy is prepared; he'd noted an ATM and taken out pesos. Guatamala banks won't give you money, you have to do it through the ATM. I was very proud of his forethought because I'll bet its the same in Mexico. Only about 20 minutes for the bank tellar to collect the required 550 pesos, laboriously fill in and print out an additional 6 forms. 3 for him, 3 for us - but all stamped. Yea!! Back to immigration where our friend looked everything over, took the copies of our passport which were made by the Port Captain (remember this point), stamped everything again - now our Second Stamp and told us we were done. Roy tried to pass him a little something as we offered a profuse "Gracias".  He just smiled, shook his head and said "De Nada".
Nice.

Time to get back to the airport for that Customs stamp - we eventually found a taxi and headed out there. No one is at any of the windows! But we can see that bag with our 1 onion, 2 mangoes, 3 tomatoes and 1/2 of lime sitting right there. In desperation we run around the airport asking everyone for the Custom and Agricultural Agents. I swear, in another little room was a fellow in a T-shirt and jeans when we finally asked him he looked up from playing on his cell phone and held out his hand for the papers, totally bored. This was The Guy? We were too dumb-founded even to be shocked. He went over everything, looked at each stamp and all the papers right side up, upside down and backwards. Shook his head, made a phone call, looked at everything again and finally, finally reached for it it, YES the STAMP. Three Stamps! Are we home free? The Guy agrees. Says we, now, just have to present everything back to the Port Captain and we're good to go. So we go out to hail a cab. Look around - what kind of airport doesn't have cabs standing in wait? Well the Mexican kind where the mayor controls the airport and all transportation goes through him or his brother. We must buy a voucher and load into vans that make the rounds of the hotels and condos. So not only is it twice as expensive but we must wait for the van to load up with 8 passengers and then wait our turn to be dropped off.

Exhausted but still a beautiful Flamboyant tree

Finally, our triumphant return to the Capitania De Puerto. Out of the van clutching our paperwork and up to the door - LOCKED! Its now 3:15pm and this office, like the Immigration office closed at 1pm!!! Did anyone tell us? Did we look?

In shock I want to just leave, hand all those papers and stamps to the agent in Isla Mujeres where checking in was so easy last year. Luckily Roy's cooler head prevailed, he steered us to a restaurant - we hadn't eaten all day. Ordered some food, used their wifi to get in touch with everyone and I agreed, there was nothing to be done. You don't mess with Mexico - last year a friend of a friend's boat was impounded for over 6 months because he didn't have a Zarpe from his last port of call.

We went back to the boat and had our first taste of good news. There was free WiFi in the harbor so we could make phone calls, get weather reports and emails. We had a cocktail (or two, was it three?) and went to sleep. Tomorrow was another day.

This morning off we go -
The Port Captain accepts our paperwork looks at it from every direction, counts the stamps and looks at us and says -
"No hospital? No doctor stamp".
"What, the hospital, no - no -no Customs told us they did it all", we only needed three Stamps!. We are looking desperate again. He took a step back, raised himself very upright and in a deep, official voice said "I am the Capitaine of the Puerto I decide if you must go to the hospital". He then smiled and offered to give us the address and once again said "hospital, no problemo, no pay". Again we hailed a taxi, again there's a window where no one looks at you. But now we know - Knock loudly on that opaque glass and yell Stamp, por favour. We eventually got the Fourth Stamp, again handed in the paperwork,  again it was looked over. The Port Captain looked up and ominously said "Where's the Copy of your Passports?" (well he said it in Spanish) . The response to our reply that it had been taken by Immigration was a sight we would have preferred to miss. "No, No, No, My machino make copies not their machino" this went on for awhile with lots of slamming of doors and stomping of feet. Not knowing what to do, we just stood there. Eventually he came back handed us both our Mexico check-in papers and our departure for Isla Mujeres paperwork and with a quick smile said."It is better for sailors to check into Isla Mujeres."

We Definitely Agree!!

PortoStuck!

My Belizean readers will recognize the title immediately. And yes, we (almost) got stuck in PortoStuck.  Seemed the right, oh no, that's starboard; port (left) the thing to do.

Belize Swing Bridge from the Ferry

PortoStuck (go to port or get stuck) is one of those wonderful Belize names and terms that means exactly what it says. It's a narrow and shallow passage between 2 small cayes that you must pass through between Belize City and any of the northern cayes (Cay Chapel, Cay Caulker, Ambergris Cay). We were headed to San Pedro on Ambergris Cay from Belize City.

Anyway, we made it to San Pedro on June 21 right in time for the Lobster Fest on Saturday the 22nd. Lots of lobster was had and we once again enjoyed the pleasures of San Pedro Town. On the 26th we took the fast ferry back to Belize City to meet Cynthia Reeves and Pat Cabral. We wanted to give them a taste of Belize City as the rest of their trip would be spent on the island. So we toured Government House, St John's Cathedral - the oldest Anglican Church(1812) in the Americas and the Museum that's in the old prison. We finished with a typical Belize lunch of rice and beans, stewed chicken (or fried fish), potato salad and fried plantains at Bird's Isle Restaurant looking out on the Belize River.

Snorkeling across a Hol Chan Reef

Up Close and Personal - 200 lb Grouper

The next 5 days were spent snorkeling, eating more lobsters and generally enjoying San Pedro (Sour Sop ice cream, yum yum). Our best snorkeling trip was Hol Chan Marine Preserve. Hol Chan was Belize's first marine preserve established back in 1981. We're proud to say we were there then! Once again we anchored outside of Hurricane's and enjoyed cocktails and ceviche as well as the view. Its been great, but Cynthia and Pat left on the 2nd and took the good weather with them.

We were left with two tropical waves one of which raised the winds to nearly 30kts and almost had us and Wahoo in Hurricanes for cocktails. After that 300 ft anchor drag we moved over and re-anchored using both anchors the Bruce and the Fortress. Thankfully they held throughout the night and all of yesterday as the winds howled. The reef protects us from the higher waves and the anchors did their job.

Check Out the Green Moray and a Black Grouper

Finally things are settling down and we're looking to leave. Roy's ashore checking us out of Belize, I'm doing my best to get 7th Street re-rented. We'll motor over to the fuel dock tomorrow and fill up with diesel and water. We'll sail for Isla Mujeres either Sunday or Monday. Maybe Sammye and Grouper will meet us for fun and games in Mexico. We'll be on our way to Houston before the end of July. John Edward is building his studio and he wants his Dad there and his Dad wants to be there.

Good by Belize - We Loved Every Minute!

Charts of Southern Belize

Tropical Depression#2 went inland yesterday just South of Placencia. Winds and rain continued all day and most of the night here at Cucumber Beach Marina. We saw and felt 45kts a few times. We were glad to be inside! It's supposed to be cloudy and rainy for several more days so that might curtail our plans to go into Cayo District for a couple of days. As Cayo is one of our favorite parts of Belize we hope to still be able to go but we also want to be on Ambergis Cay for the San Pedro Lobster Fest, Sat. June 22nd. Such a dilemma!

Thought it might be fun for you to see the charts we use and our routes and waypoints around Southern Belize this past month. I've used screen shots to give you an idea. You can enlarge each map to get a better view.

The blue lines are our routes through and around the cays. The yellow names are waypoints (latitude and longitude points on the map that we sail to). On the chart the colors are confusing at first. The green blue near shores is shallower and the white is very deep. Luckily the depths are marked.
Belize has a safe, reef free, inner channel between the shoreline and the first line of cays (blue area near shore). Its 40-60ft deep so you can sail here without keeping a bow lookout for coral heads. There is also a very deep mid-channel named Victoria Channel that averages 60 - 100 ft from the mid point of Belize most of the way South (see the white area on the charts). Victoria Channel winds its way through the middle cays which are often mangrove cays though some are part mangrove and part sand/palm trees. Victoria Channel is mostly free of coral heads but you do still have to keep a sharp lookout as there are shallow patches and areas of coral that extend from the seafloor and these need to be avoided. Once East of Victoria Channel you are headed towards the reef and it is much shallower 5 - 15 ft with coral heads and reef patches reaching to the surface. Coral and reef patches are marked on the chart as a red "+" but this denotes many coral heads and reef patches so a red + means "beware of this entire area. The cays here are sand and palm trees. Outside of the reef is the Caribbean Sea and depths quickly reach thousands of feet except for the atolls.

Our route from Placencia SE to Ranguana Cay then NE along the outer cays to Silk Cay, Little Water and Rendezvous Cays. Little Water was very difficult as the chart was off.

After Rendezvous and N Long Coco we went back to Placencia. When we left the next time our track was N to Sopodilla Lagoon to Sanctuary Belize (we didn't run over the land but stayed in the Inner Channel). Then we went E to Whippari, S Long Coco, Hatchet, then out the Queen Cay Cut to Glover's and back in to South Water Cay before coming on to Belize City.

Above is an enlarged chart of Little Water clearly marking the safe way to enter (waypoints are on the blog entry). At Little Water you can see that our anchorage is very different than the chart. We believe the deep blue patch where we anchored is shown on the chart to our SE though we were in 30 - 40 ft not 15ft. The marked anchorage to our NW was clearly coral filled and about 3 - 5 ft deep.

This is our entry from Victoria Channel to the anchorage at Rendezvous Cay. We had to very carefully eyeball our way through the coral between Long Coco Cay and Rendezvous. There is a reef near Long Coco which isn't shown on the chart but clearly shows up as you approach.

Polarized sunglasses are a must and the general rule is move only when the sun is high in the sky. Go East between 11am and 2pm, West early morning until about 1pm. If you can do that and remember your liquor bottles you'll be OK. Sky Vodka: 50+ feet, Tanqueray and what you imagine it looks like if it where more blue: 25 ft or so. Bombay: about 15ft. Watch out for anything that looks like Amsterdam Gin and definitely remember how bad you feel after a Cuervo Tequilla night (coral heads coming to the surface!!)

These are Navionic Charts from MacEnc on our IMac. 

Of course, you wouldn't want to cruise Belize without Captain Freya Rauscher's Guide to Belize, Mexico and the Rio Dulce.

Running from the Storm

Chris Parker, the marine weather guru, told us on Wednesday that we needed to be somewhere safe by Saturday. He was soooo right and we are are very glad we did just that. Sailed in to Cucumber Beach Marina which is 4 miles South Belize City yesterday around 4pm. A couple of squalls on the way here and today...

can't even see Belize!

Ahh, but the week prior was perfect. Wippari Cay (or Whipray) was our last night with Tom and Coleen as they planned on taking Unplugged to safe harbor in the Rio Dulce. I think we're the only boat still out except for chartered cats. Whipray Cay was exceptional, how could I have left the camera on the boat. Whipray Lodge is a small fishing lodge on Whipray Cay and if you want to fish Permit this is the place to be. Julian Cabral is a world renowned Permit guide and he and his wife Beverly run the 3 cabana lodge. But, it was his young son who showed us the "coral nursery" that made snorkeling this cay's reef so special. I've know since last year (see the link in the San Pedro blog from last year) that Belize was one of the places where marine biologist are trying to grow coral. We swam over what looked like bed springs raised over the seafloor with pieces of coral attached. Since I didn't have my camera check out this website "New Hope for Belize Coral Reefs".

Diner overlooks the sea at Hatchet 

Of course, this effort can't repair all the damage being done by warming oceans, boat and human traffic and other environmental damage but mitigation is the name of the game and growing coral is part of that. We saw anchor and rode damage all over. Even trying our hardest not to, we sadly added our own. Belize is putting out mooring balls and hopefully as this lovely destination is growing ever more popular they will put out more of them and maintain them better. And, hopefully, those of us boating here will learn to distinguish coral from grass when we must drop an anchor. I was surprised that of the other tourist (not sailers, thankfully) we met, many didn't know that flippers can damage coral! No wonder Belize is insisting on guides on all of its marine parks.

Vamping among the Cabanas at Hatchet Cay

After Wippari out next stop was Hatchet Cay and what a difference! Hatchet Cay is pure tropical sophistication. Beautifully landscaped, meticulously run, truly a superb tropical island resort. We grabbed a mooring ball and stayed for 3 nights. Cocktails at the bar each evening, dinner with guests we met (from Mobile!). Tanya, her two twin sons Nick and Ethan, plus Dan who was traveling alone from Sacramento became our new "best friends" We invited them to the boat and everyone went out snorkeling with Roy towing the boys until they got the hang of things.

Taking the boys for a swim - they're invited for Bachus Sunday next year.

Wahoo at Glover's Reef

The wind was blowing 20 - 25 knots all the while we hung out at Hatchet which isn't the most protected of anchorages so maybe that's what gave me the courage to say "lets go for it" when we decided to move on. The "It" was a sail outside the reef to Glover's Reef, one of Belize's 3 atolls. Knowing that with the weather disintegrating on Sunday if we were ever going to do it we needed to do it now. We left the shelter of the reef through the Queen Cay Cut and sailed the 18 miles to Glover's in 5 - 7 ft seas. (Gulp!) Oh but once there, Wow! 

Isla Marisol, a dive "resort" on Glover's

Coral Reef - Glover's

Scrawled filefish - Glover's Reef

Smooth Trunkfish - Glover's Reef

An atoll is basically a shallow limestone lagoon rising out of the ocean formed by a circling coral reef with numerous coral patches scattered throughout the "lagoon". Belize has three of the four atolls found in the  Western hemisphere. Turneffe, Glover's and the"blue hole, Lighthouse Reef, made famous by Jacques Cousteau. The diving at these reefs is spectacular as the vertical coral cliffs go down hundred's of feet. But the snorkeling is pretty good also with better visibility and many interesting species that aren't seen as often inside the reef. We were glad for our one day there. Glover's is one of Belize's Marine Parks. There is a research station and it is a protected fishing zone. Much of it is "no take" and other parts have strictly enforced seasons. The fishing boat below was there to take advantage of the Lobster season.

A lurking Barracuda

As we were headed for safe harbor we saw at least six of these small sail boats with their fishing dories. Each one has at least 9 men aboard who paddle the dorries out to fish. I caught this one while they where still asleep very early Friday morning at Glover's Reef. Lobster Season started the next day. I guess the bad weather is just part of their life!

Carrie Bow Cay with South Water Cut visible on the right

We knew that early Friday morning we had to sail back inside the reef. Luckily the wind was down to 10 - 15 kts and the seas laid down accordingly. We had a lovely sail coming back inside at South Water Cut, turned right and had a perfect anchorage in the lee of one of our favorite islands, South Water Cay. Enough snorkeling is an oxymoron so after a rest and lunch we took the dingy to a sweet spot we had enjoyed last year and happily spent time doing our thing.

Saturday morning we headed west for the Inner Channel and sailed the 42 miles to Belize City and safety. As it was a bright blue morning with the sun sparkling off the turquoise water it was hard to leave the reef but a nasty squall near Dangria confirmed that we had made the right decision.

Sanctuary Belize

Wahoo sailing along the coast of Belize

Well yes, Belize is a sanctuary but the title actually refers to an amazing project in Sapodilla Lagoon which is North of Placencia and where Roy's dad, Walter, ran a sawmill for his uncle. For those of you who remember Walter's story of being stranded in a small boat for 5 days with no food - this is where it happened. (the hand shake, "Well that's breakfast, followed by another, "Well that's dinner", then the plane fly-over that dropped food in the salty water - good story, lovely man!)

Unplugged under sail

The night before we were to leave Placencia for cays on the reef we had a big storm. Winds were clocked at 47 knots and several sailboats, including Unplugged, dragged their anchors. One of the dive boats sank (no injuries). Unplugged is Tom and Coleen's boat and we were going together out to the reef. After the storm everyone felt the need to be totally enclosed and spend a night or two without any drama. So having heard about an unfinished marina in Sapodilla Lagoon with great all around protection, we decided to head that way. Unplugged, Wahoo and two UK sailboats headed to this protected harbor.

Happy Hour on Wahoo

John and Lucy, the future marina managers, welcomed us so warmly that it was 3 days before we all left. They set up pot-luck dinners, allowed us access to the pool, drove us into Dangria Town and gave us a grand tour of the entire development. John and Lucy, were hired by Sanctuary and sailed to Belize a year ago from Vancouver. They sail and live aboard their 70 ft ferro cement boat, Stone Age, while helping to get the marina up and running. The entire Sanctuary Belize site is a 21,000 acre park of which 10% is being developed for homesteads, a cabana style  hotel, beautiful clubhouse with a salt water pool and marina. They are using lots of solar and bio-fuel for power, some of the houses are even made of native bamboo. Of course, Roy knew the family of the man in charge, John Usher, who is a nephew of Mrs Jane Usher. 

Thatching a Roof

As usual, few days go by without an incident. While Wahoo didn't experience the seriously unpleasant sensation of an anchor dragging and the subsequent effort to keep your boat away from shore, docks and other boats in the torrential rain and winds that cause the experience to begin with, we did manage to have our own little experience.

John with a welcome wave on Stone Age

 Here we are motoring up to Sopodilla in very light winds with a clear blue sky above when "thunk!, ba-baump!' "What the hell is that? The engine is vibrating, turn it off fast!! " We're in 90 ft of water in the inner passage - can't be a coral head. Guess someone has to have a look. That means stopping the boat and going into the water while we are NOT at anchor, yikes! This is another of Roy's tasks. Which leaves me making sure we don't sail away and he can get back onboard. Now here's the cool part. This was our first example of traveling with a "buddy boat". Roy raised Tom on the VHF radio to tell him what had happened and he offered to come to our assistance. But we asked that he just standby. It ended up being some coconut fronds which were quickly freed from the propeller  but it did feel good to know that someone WAS standing by.

Salt Water pool overlooks the Caribbean

Coleen and Dale

We stayed with Unplugged for the 3 nights in Sapodilla then 2 nights at Whipray Cay where we enjoyed some good snorkeling, dinner together and a movie night. Yesterday, the 8th, we separated as they were heading to cays we'd already visited for a few days prior to sailing on to the Rio for hurricane season. Tom and Coleen are seasoned sailors who spent 5 years living aboard and sailing the East Coast and the Eastern Caribbean. After a few years back in St Pete they are out and continuing the sailing life, at least for awhile. Its fun to make new friends while sailing, a little sad as you part ways, but then you try to keep up and stay in touch as your wakes may meet again.

A bamboo house

We came back into Placencia for water, a generator repair, some Wifi and time on our Belize phone. This morning we are heading back out and hopefully will make it not only to the cays but beyond to Glover's Reef, one of Belize's 3 atolls.

(News Flash -At 8am on June 9th,  for the first time, we were able to, not only listen, but check in to the NorthWest Caribbean Net! This is a big step forward in our attempt to conquer the SSB!!)

Life At Anchor

We arrived back in Placencia just as the weather changed from beautiful blue skies to grey and squally. What a weather forecaster - but I learned it all from Nash.

Cool and wet gave us a perfect time to get some chores done. We gave all the stainless on the boat a good cleaning, fixed a vent hose that was in a very difficult location and cooked enough red beans to put lots away in the freezer.

Of course, even that allowed for afternoons over at Yoli's Bar which was good as it put us smack in the middle of wedding plans made on Wednesday with vows on Friday. Who says Island time has to be slow. Below is the bride and groom on Yoli's deck looking out on the harbor.

Laundry

Placencia's famous sidewalk - go here to nearly everywhere.

Getting stuff is always a trip, sometimes literally. For instance to fill up with fuel and water means sailing (well motoring) to the Big Creek Ship Channel South of Placencia then turning out of that to inch our way over the 5-1/2ft bar that leads to the lagoon (we draw 5ft 3in - tides are important), then up the lagoon about 3 miles to fill up at Robert's Grove Marina. The whole trip, there and back takes 4 - 5 hours as we must go slow, slow in the shallow lagoon. That was a large part of one day. Laundry is good here as we found someone to do our laundry for $7 a load (wash, dry and fold). We just haul everything there and back from the boat to the dinghy and over to her house, then back again. Believe me that's not a bad deal!

Finding provisions can be both fun and frustrating and a repeat of boat to dinghy to dock to store(s). Placencia has two vegetable stands, 2 grocery stores - 1 with beer, 1 with liquor, plus John the Bakerman. Oh and Belikan comes only in bottles, you didn't think there might be something else did you? Basically when you see something you want better get it as it probably won't be there next time. This especially applies to fresh produce and bread. I learned an important lesson - don't turn your nose up at head lettuce. If you do you'll go without!

Conch Fritters! Yummy.

Monkey River Town

The weather improved on Thursday so we hired a guide and took a trip to Monkey River Town. We saw everything there is to see by land (during a Jungle Hike) and sea (from the guide's Panga boat) - Crocodiles, Howler Monkeys, Giant Bamboo, Montesuma birds with their strange hanging nests and long yellow tails and lots of Manatees.

Howler Monkey - this troop had a big male, 2 females and 1 baby. Hope the video in the email works.

We've spent 10 days hanging around and getting chores done. We even bought 5 lbs of conch on the last day of conch season and watched all of "Breaking Bad" season 4.  Today, which we think is our last one here, we had quite a treat. Together with another sailing couple, Tom and Coleen, we dinghyed around the point and up in front of town (Placencia is a long curving peninsula) to Turtle Inn for lunch. Turtle Inn is one of two resorts in Belize owned by Frances Ford Coppola. Needless to say this was a far cry from rice and beans with stewed chicken.

Turtle Inn

Lunch at Turtle Inn

Tomorrow if the weather stays as forecast we'll buddy sail with Tom and Coleen to Whippari Cay then out to Glover's Reef, one of Belize's atolls.

While we love the hustle and bustle of San Pedro and the old Colonial charm of Belize City, Placencia has a special place in our hearts as the place we decided to live together way, way, way back when!

Placencia Beach

Looks like "our spot"