Wednesday, May 29, 2019

It’s Our Anniversary, Y’all

May 12, 2009 - May 12, 2019


12,000 Nautical Miles!

THANK YOU FOR FOLLOWING
We Loved Having You Along For the Sail

Sitting here, trying to focus on standouts-both great and terrifying.

Cayo Campo, Cuba
Mt Hartman Bay, Grenada
The absolute standout anchorage was a night off of Cuba at Cayo Campo where we had an incredible day meeting the men who cared for the monkeys, the anchorage itself was spectacular. Right on a reef, feeling like we were anchored at the edge of the earth. We were surrounded by incredible shades of blues and turquoise. But that night when the full moon rose so big and bright the water was so clear that it seemed to disappear. For the first time, I thanked Roy for taking me (often kicking, cursing and screaming) on this incredible journey. Though to be honest Mt Hartman Bay in Grenada is a standout for so many reasons. Certainly my most favorite hurricane season. 

Terrifying was the overnight passage between Cuba and Jamaica. Supposed to be a walk in the park but a weather window shut mid-Passage and the winds climbed to 40+knots with seas approaching 15ft. That truly wasn't so bad but the freighter that seemed intent on running into us is the real story. Roy had to turn from our course in those high waves several times as he attempted to keep us safe. While there were others, to me, the worst was in the Dominican Republic when we came out of the slit that protects Isla Beata, to near white-out conditions. Certainly learned to trust in Wahoo that day.


Which certainly brings me to the most magical passage. On the same trip East, we were sailing overnight across the Windward Passage, between Jamaica and Hispaniola, on our way to Ile a Vache and I saw the Southern Cross for the first time and like the song says “ realized why I came this way”.

And the most magical experience? Well, cruising in the Grenadines on our way to Bequia when we were overwhelmed by the sight of hundreds of dolphins cavorting in a line on either side of Wahoo as far as the eye could see. No picture can do that experience justice. 

We are proud to be a part of the support given by the cruising community to the countries we visit. From bottles of rum to the caretakers of cayes in Belize, to the school supplies, hooks and fishing line in Cuba to being part of “Friends of Ile a Vache” and "Pass It on Guatemala". Wherever we sail - Grenada, through Dominica to Guatemala we are grateful to be part of this community that shows respect and love to the places we visit. 


Titus in Dominica
Wagner helping

Last but not least I treasure the incredible people we have met and shared time with, both cruising friends and island locals. Impossible to name them all but Mike and Roycelyn stand out for singing “Happy Birthday” to Roy over the VHF in Portsmouth, Dominica so that the entire harbor of 40 odd boats heard them, to Dave and Jane Mitchell who shared so many stellar moments on our trip down the Eastern Caribbean Islands and then returned so that we could share Classic Race Week in Antigua, to our Grenada Gang of Eight who made hurricane season in 2015 a highlight of my life.

2010 - 2019 
It's a Wahoo Life!

May 12, 2009, we bought a 42ft Hunter Passage named “Oh La La” in St Petersburg & sailed off to the Bahamas via Key West. 

Grouper came along to help us get her in shape. Luckily there wasn't much to do!

Wahoo is Born
At Nippers
















2010 The BP oil spill meant we didn’t go far, but we had fun with friends


Avis & Dale -go go girls
Ready, Set.Dive

Evening on the Lake

Best buds







































2011 NOLA to the Bahamas, Stops on the Gulf Coast in Key West and the Dry Tortugas.

Our dear friend Nancy came to Key West


As did Dave & Angela. We visited Duval Street and Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas 



Andrew crossed the Gulf Stream with us to the Bahamas

Sammye and Grouper came to Staniel Cay, Bahamas 

to see the pigs















Austin joined us in Florida for the trip back to New Orleans in July


2012 On April 11 Wahoo left New Orleans for the Caribbean. 


into a Great Adventure



Wahoo sailed from NOYC


We picked up Austin & Mary in Key West

and left our mark on Cuba


































after all of that and Mexico too, we eventually headed to Belize

With Sebastian, and don't know who else, we ended in San Pedro in time for dinner.

beaches & more to explore
Roy's Cool Spot with friends!


                                                It took the threat of a hurricane to drive us into the Rio Dulce 


2013
More exploration of the Belizean cayes with a June sail to Isla Mujeres for hurricane season before heading back to Houston and New Orleans.

All those lovely Belizean Cayes

and Snorkeling!

Happy to see Cynthia & Pat

Conch fritters, Belikin beer, LA Hot Sauce



2014 Back for Christmas and winter sailing in Belize. Then we head to the Eastern Caribbean with a 6 week trip through Cuba plus Jamaica, Haiti, Dominican Rebuplic and Puerto Rico before loads of fun in the Virgins.
Santa Snorkel

Cockpitting
We arrived in Cuba from Mexico and celebrated Roy's 70th Birthday in Nuevo Gerona, Cuba 
where the streets are made of marble.



Cienfuegoes
Trinidad, Cuba


Santiago de Cuba
We gave them guitar strings, they invited us into their home and gave us dinner.

And then it was on to Jamaica

Jerk Chicken and Red Stripe
Blue Pool in Jamaica
Our trip across the Greater Antilles brought us straight into the Trade Winds. They blow West we were going East but it was worth it to finally get to Puerto Rico and the Virgins where we had such great company


Austin and the Wahoo Crew 
John Edward and Laura on Jost Van Dyke
Finally, after well over 1700 miles and 9 countries Wahoo is wrapped up in Puerto Rico.
October 2014 We returned and sailed to St Martin, St Bart's and Anguilla

 Roy & I celebrated our 40th Anniversary in Grande Case, St Martin.

Then our dear, dear friends came for Ted's 70th birthday.
Ted, Louana, Monica & Roy in St Barts
On Wahoo


2015 We continued down the Island Chain of the Eastern Caribbean
St Kitts Carnival at New Year's

Jane & Dave Mitchel in Nevis


Beautiful ships

Beautiful vistas

Steel Bands
and Rum!







Ahhh, the Caribbean


In Grenada for 2015 hurricane season -

Lindy visited and we snorkeled
We limed

      had an Oildown on the beach

Celebrated Dale's timeless birthday with wonderful friends



and hated that it had to end - Our Gang of Eight 

2016
Grenada to Puerto Rico included a stop in Antigua for Classic Race Week and a chance to meet up with friends once more.

Columbia at sea
race watching - so cool

Classic Race
All together again
Back up the chain of islands we went, with a return visit to each island again.

One of our favorites - Magical Dominica
New rigging in St Martin


Iconic Foxy & Dale




















Watching the Blue Tang school is breathtaking 


Dinghy riding with the whole Lawrence family in the BVIs (Dave, Angela, Sarah & Alexis)



The end of 2016 found us once again in Jamaica  ready to start

2017 
The trip West back through Cuba, Mexico and finally Belize 3 years later

Back at Yoli's
Another bar - meeting up with friends we'd left






yep, these two







But come May 2017 we entered the worst of times.
With Austin's death we were left bereft, without a rudder or even an anchor.  We were grateful for these two

and these girls brought a smile













Good to be together



He's left us and we'll miss him forever

2018 Back on Wahoo - We threw ourselves into boat work

We refurbished the galley, varnished like crazy, replaced the bimini and dodger
We hung out with other cruisers at dinghy raft-ups 


Made new cruising friends who would help steal breadfruit


Finally made it to Lighthouse Reef


And found solace when we could




2019 More Guatemala More Belize and New Knees

More silly ways to eat lobster

more cockpit parties

More Casa Guatemala boat bringing us fruits and veggies at Tortugal


And a new thing - Sandra enjoying boat life!




Saturday, April 20, 2019

Pawns of the Weather gods

Spotted Eagle Ray at South Water Caye.

Would you people to the North of us quit with these cold fronts- it’s April, nearly May, after all!! 

More birthday fun, at Hatchet Caye with SV Wanderlust( Inge, Hans & friend) 
King Cake for Le Roi
I know I shouldn’t complain as y’all are doing the freezing, we’re just doing the hiding and rolling. I’m trying to remember when it was that Stormy Stickle, yes the real name of Chris Parker’s assistant weatherman, told us this coming front was the last of the fronts for this year. I think that was the one that arrived around Roy’s birthday or Mardi Gras for our fellow New Orleanians. I heard it was a cold, cold Fat Tuesday for y’all and for us; we were hunkered down in Sapodilla Lagoon where life at the pool was tough baby, just tough. Made a King Cake to celebrate Roy and Mardi Gras and all the cruisers hung out in their dinghies for an evening raft up.

Waiting out the front - dinghy raft up in Sapodilla Lagoon

Sailing!
Since then the fronts have continued with depressing regularity. They bring high winds that start out N-NE then proceed to clock over a period of days/ weeks ( seems forever?!). The worst is when the high winds come from the West. Belize and its cayes run N-S and the lee is the Western side with lots of open water between them and the mainland. That means it’s time to sail into a hidey hole. That generally has us heading to Placencia Town with its grocery stores, many restaurants and Yoli’s Bar or Sapodilla Lagoon with its marina for fuel and water and splendid pool and restaurant. Both of these require a sail back to mainland Belize from the outer cayes. But there are a few mangrove cayes closer to the reef that offer some protection and a quicker return to the fun of sailing and snorkeling. 

Each morning everyone makes sure to check in with the Northwest Caribbean Net to find out where their friends are heading. The Northwest Caribbean Net meets daily during the height of the sailing season, Nov-June, on the Single Side Band radio. The Net Controller cycles through the cruisers who volunteer and each morning at 8am we get a check for vessels in distress or underway, they give the weather, then allow individual cruisers to check in with their whereabouts, local weather and any questions, statements or other transmissions they have. It’s a great service, especially for boats in need of assistance, and overall lots of fun. It covers Mexico up to Isla Mujeres, Belize and the Bay Islands of Honduras. Last year I volunteered but this year we’re having radio problems so...

 
Porpoises playing with Wahoo

From March 5th on we had day after day of high North winds and everyone stayed in port waiting for the winds to change. It must have been boredom and a surfeit of Tutti-Frutte gelato that resurrected the Organizer in me. I dragged Roy to a meeting with Lisa and Monique, the two women who run Fragments of Hope. This organization’s purpose is coral restoration on the Belize reefs and cayes. I, and several friends, spent 3 weeks drumming up interest through announcements on the morning Net, announcements on various cruisers’ Facebook pages, leaflets throughout Placencia and generally making a nuisance every time we gathered for Sundowners at happy hours. Attending a March 21 Seminar seemed a good way to profitably pass the time. Ha, March 19th dawned blue, bright and calm with a forecast of fair winds for days to come. Yep, “they scattered like birds that before the wild hurricanes fly.”  I was left with a twisted stomach and fear of meeting Lisa or Monique on the sidewalk (only one) of Placencia. But amazingly some boats sailed back in, others stayed, the Seminar was full and a good time was had by all. As for those guys who had made it to the Atolls or the Bay Islands-Maybe next year someone else will arrange something for them- but Not Me!

Staghorn and elkhorn corals from FOH out-plantings
We learned about the methods of using fragments of living coral, much as a gardener uses plant cuttings to help make a dying reef a little healthier. They have discovered the types of coral that respond best. This will never replace all that is being loss but it offers a smidgen of hope. So many causes of reef disease, bleaching and dying it’s good to see something that is positive. In addition, we had the crocodile lady tell about the crocs in Belize. We learned that the crocs here are not the man-eating variety and just as we all breathed a sigh of relief she added: “ best to swim between 8am and 4pm, no sense in tempting them”. Ok then, so no more cocktail hour swims for me!

Caye Caulker Main Street
Pelican
We’ve just spent a week at Caye Caulker. The Northern cayes of Caye Caulker and Ambergis Caye, are very different from the Southern Cayes where we spend most of our time. They are dizzyingly busy as they are major tourist destinations. I will sound like an old timer when I say they are so different from what they were when I came as a young mother and we stayed in whatever house Buffy and Walter had for the summer. Boy, those were the days- the coral was brighter, the fish more abundant...see what I mean, an old timer!


The pelicans know its feeding time at Iguana Reef Resosrt, Caye Caulker
Our new Mantus anchor has made us more ready to trust the few hidey holes located in mangrove cayes and not make a sail to Placencia or Sapodilla when the weather turns rough.That gives us more time out and about. We’ve been spending  a lot of time bouncing between Southwater Caye or hiding in Tobacco Range. What’s the difference? A whole world- Southwater Caye, named for its freshwater well discovered eons ago by pirates, is a beautiful coconut palm tree coral Caye with its feet on the reef. Stunningly beautiful with its many shades of blue and turquoise waters where the snorkeling is still decent and porpoises play around anchored boats. Tobacco Range is a mangrove caye with an inner lagoon circled by mangroves. This entire area is part of the South Water Caye Marine Preserve, the largest of Belize's Marine Preserves covering 117, 875 acres. From small Carrie Bow Caye with its Smithsonian Reserch Facility, North five miles to Tobacco Caye, also on the reef, it  includes 2 mangrove cayes to the West, Tobacco Range, and Twin Cayes.  Both of those can be used as hidey holes when the North wind blows.

Of course its a party at Yoli's Bar when all the cruising boats end up in Placencia!

47 boats in the anchorage - naturally we all head to Yolis Bar!
 

Plus it was Heather , from Scott Free's birthday.
 Lots of people to help celebrate. That's Sue, in blue, from Blue Jacket and Sally, in pink, from Capria plus a bar full.

South Water Caye  and the entire Marine Preserve is an absolute favorite spot!